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About 03j-sellick

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    iDubber Leg End

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  1. G60 Alpine White Mk2 Golf

    Any more on the m3 next to it in the last photo?!
  2. Any places for wheel re-drilling?

    That would be ideal mate because my parents live in Winchester! Any more details on the wheels, and who did them? Cheers
  3. Any places for wheel re-drilling?

    Keeha, that's all I need! Was that in Aus or over here? big_john, I've messaged Elek already, but thank you!
  4. Any places for wheel re-drilling?

    Hi guys, anyone know anywhere decent for wheel re-drilling? I've had a few local quotes for around £180-200, but seem to remember some people paying a lot less. A few places have said 'bring them down' but I don't have a daily at the moment and would rather just send them off somewhere that's been recommended/done similar jobs before! I know it's certainly not something to cheap out on, but thought it was worth asking!
  5. Mk2 TFSI

    Lovely Rallyes! And this mk2 is stunning, can't wait to see the 4wd conversion
  6. How to tell genuine or fake BBS CH?

    Thats a bit far to stretch with wobble bolts isn't it?
  7. Project 'Can't take no credit' Oak Green MK2 3dr

    Lovely combo! Had a BBM, but always wanted an oak green. Can't help but think it would look better with orange indicators and standard number plates though!
  8. Vw mk1 polo 1978

    Lovely welding and amazing progress! Love the yellow mk1's, definitely my favourite colour. Look forward to updates!
  9. As title, the girlfriends dads car needs a new engine (all I've been told is that it needs a new engine and it's going to cost £4000, so guessing it's cambelt failure). It's an a4 with the 2.5 v6 tdi engine. From what I've read they are terrible, outdated engines. I've swapped engines in mk1/2 golfs, and little Polo 6n2's. I've worked on lots of cars (more modern too), and am fairly confident, but obviously it's quite a big engine, and I've never worked on anything longitudinally mounted. They can't afford to have it replaced by a garage, so it's just sat there and I might give it a go if I can find a cheap replacement. Anything I should know before I offer?
  10. 1966 split

    I will get some more photos next time I'm with the van. I don't have the bumpers but I will be sourcing some. Rear lights will be going back to the standard setup hopefully. Front indicators have been moved into the headlights which I'm not sure about at the moment. Going to fit the type 4 motor, trying to source a porsche fan/alternator setup! Got a decent aftermarket clutch and flywheel, also trying to source some big twin carbs. Once the mechanical stuff is done I'm going to fit a camping interior. Possibly fit side windows and a DIY respray but not sure if I should keep it a van, and may just keep it blue for now (would like to find out the original colour). Definitely going to do the cab with nice door cards and seats etc. but all to original spec. I'm hoping to draw the camping interior up on CAD and go from there!
  11. 1966 split

    Ok so I know this is by no means an air-cooled forum, but I thought I'd share my recent purchase. I have always been into mk1/2 golfs as well as newer VAG cars and I'm totally new to air cooled Volkswagens so I don't really have any idea what I'm talking about, but I have always wanted one of these! To be honest it was a bit of an impulse purchase and I could really do with the money elsewhere, so I thought I'd put a progress thread up to keep me motivated and stop me from selling it! So here it is: That's the highest setting on the front: It's a very solid UK RHD 1966 panel van, which has had the following replaced over last 4 years: new front wheel arches, dog legs (both sides), new inner front valance, front chassis sections, 6" front repair panel, new cab floor, steering box raise section, new windscreen surround panels, inner and outer, front roof peak clip, new roof gutter passenger side front to rear, new rear gutter corners and rear sections, new short side rear panel (passenger side rear quarter), new rear corners and battery trays, new rear cross member/valance, long side repair section bottom 12", new inner and outer sills both sides, all new outriggers and jacking points, new top hat and i section cross members, new chassis sections front to rear both sides, new cargo floors and load area floors and fire wall. All the doors have been repaired or replaced and are solid. It's also got a creative engineering IRS conversion with adjustable dog leg spring plates and a beetle gearbox, lowered and narrowed T2D front beam with drop spindles and adjustable in situ track control arms. Along with a CSP front disc brake conversion, bay window rear brakes and Wide5 converted rear drums, and new metal brake pipes and flexi hoses throughout. There is no engine fitted currently but I've got a standard 1500, and a 2 litre type 4 engine which I'm hoping to do an upright conversion on and fit with a few other trick bits. Got big plans so hopefully there will be some updates soon!
  12. Do wider tyres grip better than narrower ones?

    Interesting video, and interesting thread. I'm very happy to be proved wrong. Most peoples answer is just to 'use your common sense' with regards to width - a wider tyre will always provide more grip. As has been already mentioned, as the surface area increases, the pressure over that area will decrease. If you think, a brick takes the same effort to push along a table no matter which face is in contact with the table. When I said a skinny tyre will cut through water better, I didn't mean the tread profile and shape of the tyre, I meant there would be more pressure on the contact area because you're spreading the same weight over a smaller surface area. Most people will relate to their own experiences when they say wider tyres are better. As I said in the other thread, a huge part of why cars have wide tyres is because the larger surface area helps to dissipate heat more effectively, and they can use softer compounds without reducing the life of the tyre. Obviously, a skinny tyre designed for a Polo is going to be less grippy than an m5 tyre because longevity is more important than grip. Again, I very much doubt the rubber on those space savers is the same as the standard tyres. Friction is independent of surface area (as in the brick example). Rubber (although car tyres aren't actual rubber) does however have very different properties to other solids and will almost 'sink' into the road surface (although a very untechnical explanation, I think this is what you mean above). However, when any two solids are sliding over each other, there will be imperfections in the surface at a microscopic level causing the same effect. It's at what point the adhesion of rubber makes a big difference to grip that is very difficult to find out. My opinion is that in road cars the width of the tyre will make very little difference, but I know it depends on a lot of factors.
  13. streched tyres

    this is a subject that has been debated quite a lot. Stephen S, you sound like you know what you're talking about! And you're right, on a rough surface, the wider tyre will get more grip, on a completely smooth surface there would be no difference (unless you're talking about very soft compounds, where the rubber will melt and then it gets more complicated). I know rubber is different in terms of adhesion, but even two metals passing over each other would have 'bumps' on a microscopic level which would technically mean friction isn't proportional to the binding force. It would take very accurate equipment to measure that though. It's very difficult to test, but in my opinion, there would be very little difference with road tyres on a decent road surface. You could say that narrow tyres would be better in the wet though, because they are putting more pressure on the contact area, and would cut through the water rather than aquaplaning? Kev, one of the main reasons road tyres are wider is because the larger surface area helps to dissipate heat faster, and softer compounds can be used without dramatically decreasing tyre life.
  14. streched tyres

    If both tyres are the same compound then yes, you're right
  15. streched tyres

    bit harsh! Friction is independent of surface area. For those of you who wanted to know, I have explained it simply below. Although a larger area of contact between two surfaces would create a larger source of frictional forces, it also reduces the pressure between the two surfaces for a given force holding them together. Since pressure equals force divided by the area of contact, it works out that the increase in friction generating area is exactly offset by the reduction in pressure; the resulting frictional forces, then, are dependent only on the frictional coefficient of the materials and the force holding them together. The force holding them together is the weight of the car.