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j_bailey

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About j_bailey

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    iDubber

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  1. Hi I have and mk4 4motion golf, it has been making a weird scraping/grinding noise very similar to the sound of worn brake discs/pads grinding which i thought my brake discs were the cause of as they were both worn down, Having replaced these, the noise is still there and seems to be more noticeable at lower speeds, partially louder when turning i think? It just sounds like metal on metal but i can not see anything obvious unless i am missing something. However on my front passenger side there is slight play on the driveshaft, i can move it inwards towards to box and outwords towards the hub whilst the car is jacked up. Is this normal or is a sign of the driveshaft being on its way out and could this be the cause of the scraping/grinding noise? I have uploaded a video to youtube on the play on the shaft for you to see. This car has just turned into a bit of a lemon so hopefully would like to know any possible causes before i throw good money after bad sending it to the garage. Youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-CzD6xGG-o Thankyou in advance.
  2. Hi I have a Mk4 Golf 2.8 4Motion. The clutch pedal has dropped to the floor and it won't retract by itself unless pulled up manually with my hand. It did it in-frequent on the way home last night happened once or twice and i pulled it back up with my foot and it worked as normal until i got around the corner from home where it started to drop to the floor completely. This morning there was zero resistance in the clutch and it just completely hit floor. I have rolled the car backwards on my drive and there was large fluid stain on my drive what i presume is brake fluid (I have been told the clutch and brake cylinders share the same brake fluid?) I had been getting brake fluid warning signs for at least a month which i thought was from a brake caliper change i did that i thought was minimally leaking as every-time i have topped it up it has been tiny amounts, which i believe the actual cause to be related to this now. I have tried topping up the brake fluid today and every-time i fill the reservoir, it fills up and then sinks to roughly where the minimum marking is on the side of the reservoir. I have done this about 6 times, after doing this the brake fluid level is still roughly sat where the minimum marking is. But it feels like it has introduced and very small amount of resistance back into the clutch pedal, and when i press the clutch down, it seems to push it self to roughly 90-95% of all the way down but not completely to the floor like beforehand. Which if i understand correctly would mean there is now some resistance in the master cylinder right? (Is the master cylinder located where the clutch pedal is with the push-rod connected to the pedal?) I understand the slave cylinder is located within the Gearbox on the six-speed golfs? So if there is signs of a fluid leak on the floor, is it more likely to be the master cylinder? Roughly how long do you think a garage would take to replace this? Thank-you for your help
  3. Long story short, drivers seat height adjustment won't lock into position so when you get out of the seat, the seat rises with you. I'm after a fastner/fixing or whatever you want to call them that sits in a grove (ditch) on a round bar that prevents anything on the bar from sliding off so like a retaining/locking nut but i don't know what the correct term is so can't find them. They look like a round horse shoe, I've drawn a picture below to try and show what i mean. They look like this one from ECS but are flat
  4. Been reading up on this and just need some clarification. Car is a mk4 2.8 4motion golf with the 02M gearbox i think, it has started to crunch/grind when going into 2nd gear and from 2nd gear into 3rd gear but only at higher revs say 3250+rpm. Have been told this is the synchro which makes sense, have been having a read on vwvortex and all the yanks that have had this problem have used Pennzoil Synchromesh oil was they have all said has worked wonders. Trouble is i can't find it for sale here in the UK (unless you can ) apart from ebay and it's like £15 posted for 1litre which i'm too tight to pay, i can't find/understand the grading either to find an alternative. Other recommendations are to use a thicker oil, that's not fully synthetic as replacing it with the OEM stuff will not fix the problem as it's too synthetic and won't create enough friction for the worn synchro. Have read to use either a mineral oil rated GL4 ep80w, or semi synthetic GL4 75w/90. Now the OEM stuff is GL5 (i dont know what these GL* ratings are) does that matter? What would you use? Car is on 140,000 miles by the way and i highly doubt it has ever been changed in its life.
  5. Would raising the coilovers actually do anything for clearance though? Would the wheel still be in the same position within the arch
  6. Was wondering where i stand on this one so hopefully you knowledgeable lot can tell me. My mk4 4motion has failed its MOT today on nearside tyre in contact with the wheel arch but only on full lock. Driver's side is completley fine and is the same setup, so speaking to my local vw mechanic who isnt the mot centre says its most likely that the tracking along with the steering rack adjustment is out and thats why my car pulls slightly to the left. I will have to get that fixed later-on, the car is booked in for its retest on Monday, so today i have gone out and bought a pair of 12.5mm spacers for the front, i have fitted them and with the car stainonary without being jacked it is now clear and not touching but it is close, however with the car jacked up off the floor, when you put full lock on it is catching still slightly and this is how i think they tested it with the front jacked up on a 4post lift. Now my question is should it pass the MOT with it being fine in how it will operate on the road? And do they have to test it with it jacked up? The car is quite low on coilovers, would raising them do anything at all? Tyre setup is 225/40/18 and wheel width is 8", Another 5mm would probally clear it but i cant afford another set nor would i be able to get hold of another set before Monday, If anyone near the Warrington or surronding areas has any standard wheels with legal tyres i could borrow for beer money, you'd be a life saver
  7. Jacking up a car on gravel / grass

    Why not buy a couple of paving slabs?, Keep them in the garage and just brush the gravel away when your sitting them down.
  8. Want a quote? please read......

    I've sent you an email I sent it to Edition38@hertsinsurance.com
  9. Car is a mk4 golf What i am asking is when are they most accessible for a mechanic to change, during what other works would it be easier to change the steering rack and roll bar bushes? As i don't really want to pay someone a lot of money for a small job but pay for the labour for the time it takes to get access to them. I am changing my front brake discs and pads myself this weekend so might be able to get a better look at understanding what needs to come off to change them, I've been quoted £40 labour per side for changing both wishbone bushes on each side which i am going to get done. Is it better get any other bushes done whilst the wishbones will be off the car? Thanks, sorry if i haven't made sense in any parts.
  10. I'm aware of this, the sensor is almost impossible to get at without being on a ramp. I've been roughly quoted £90 to change the sensor which doesn't sound too bad, What I'm wondering is if that a faulty sensor could cause just a big obvious problem such as juddering and kangaroo-ing to a massive degree.
  11. Firstly i've bothered to check and read other Renault forums first but nothing seems obvious and the warning message "check injection" seems to cover so many problems The car isn't mine personally so don't know much about it. 05 Renault Megane 1.4 16v Once the car gets to 40mph+ or 3500k revs it starts to judder and almost kangaroo jumping to the point where you have to slow down to stop, you can not drive through it, if you put your foot to the floor the car will not pick up anymore speed at all. A warning message comes up on the dash saying "Check injection" The car doesn't judder or kangaroo at all whilst in neutral, you can rev it to the redline and everything seems fine. I don't have a Renault fault code reader so took it to a local garage, they scanned it and it came up with 12 different faults so decided to reset everything and then test-drive the car again. After doing this it came up with a fault code relating to the "upstream o2 sensor" which I'm pretty sure either controls and monitors the fuel/air mixture. The garage said this is what fault came up but in their opinion they didn't think such a problem could cause such a huge obvious issue for the car to literally jump out of your hands when it reaches a certain speed/revs. When i've taken the car out for a spin, it has gone into limp mode twice and shortly cut out afterwards, i guess to protect itself. I've checked over throttle body and the air intake manifold to see if they were mucked up but they were clean. I'm not sure about egr valves etc (dont know if they have them or where they are) i've also took the ignition coils out and back but to be honest don't really know what signs I'm looking for. Just wondering if anyone has heard of these kind of problems
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