Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/16/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Tyres on and test fit with 25mm adapters. Will be going for 20mm final due to some contact areas when it goes lower.
  2. 3 points
    Well, figured i had better pull my finger out or i'm not going to be driving it this year. so i thought the MOT tester was full of poo when he said there was an oil leak... he might have been right... cam cover gasket was a bit brittle when i removed it, so cleaned it up and inspected the cams which looked good. Just prepping the cover for some black paint.
  3. 3 points
    20mm adapters fitted and dropped down. Need to get some balljoint extenders and tie rod flip up front as it’s now sat on the tie rods but it’s so close to tucking now
  4. 3 points
    At about 3am this morning I woke up feeling rather unwell and then proceeded to spend the next five hours being sick! I rang in sick at about 6am and stayed in bed / continued running to the bathroom for a couple more hours. Thankfully I stopped being sick and got a few hours sleep, eventually waking up at about 1pm. After having some dry toast (possibly the most boring piece of food in the world!) I decided to get on with extending the small piece of loom for the DBW throttle pedal. Due to the size of the plugs on each end of this loom I had to cut it, solder on an extension, feed the extension through the hole in the bulkhead and then solder the other plug back on! Anyway, I got stuck straight in, chopped the loom and started getting it ready to extend. I forgot to take a picture of the loom beforehand. This was it after being cut and clamped ready to extend. My soldering has improved massively over the years. This could actually be considered tidy now Six wires and some heat shrink later and we had this. With the extension wiring attached it was time to head outside and find a hole to feed it through. I found this one which I think is for the bonnet release cable. It was in the perfect position so it’s been hijacked for this instead. I’ll find another way of routing the bonnet release. I fed the cable through from inside. With the bare wires now in the engine bay it was time to crack out my gas powered soldering iron. It’s a handy little thing but takes an age to heat up! It was really cold outside so I didn’t waste any time and just got on with it as quick as possible! All done and heat shrinked All that was left to do was to wrap the loom in loom tape and then get back indoors and defrost! Only a small step again but at least it’s another thing I can cross off the list
  5. 2 points
    Thanks dude, was always a bit of a suck it and see idea with 18’s but i’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out so far. Certainly not to everyone’s taste but as long as i’m happy that’s the main thing
  6. 2 points
    The question I need to decide is when I do a full resto and if I go back standard it modify the car the way I wanted to , money and time will decide I guess , anyone else with mk2 roccos on here? Will try to up date more as things move forward
  7. 2 points
    Well 7 years on I still have it and it lives
  8. 2 points
    Riling up the haters with my wheel and tyre combo Q7 winters - 18x7.5 with 165/40/18’s
  9. 2 points
    @jamieprang How are we man? Yeah me to ive seen a few bits done in this! As of prep its just the same as anything else! if you want a super clean finish then its all in the prep, this cover was painted previously so i just stripped it using paint stripper, jet washed off, really thoroughly degreased it using some red scotch brite, and just smoothed off any areas that wasn't quite flat using 500 grit! never used this stuff before but a friend said its all to do with how many coats and how heavy you put it on to how you get the finish! this was just 2 heavy coats between 5-10 minutes and then straight on with the heat after the last coat! I've still got to do the inlet manifold, so if you wanted i could maybe do a bit of a detailed write up? just showing you how i do it
  10. 2 points
    Thanks mate! appreciate it. When you get the old girl out in better weather we should do a pub run to some where with a few of us
  11. 2 points
    @natedogg yes mate they certainly are rifle drilled! So tonight i had a bit of an experiment! Ive decided that i wanted to have a go at some of that wrinkle/crackle paint.... being a painter things like this aren't normal lol! anyways! here's my first attempt! i like it! Ive seen a few people use this! I think it looks super neat and smart in an engine bay!
  12. 2 points
    Looking good. I’m just rebuilding all the suspension, mocked up driveshafts, doing the brakes etc at the moment. I want to get it drivable in next 2-3 months, ready for mapping and mot. Final element will be paint.
  13. 2 points
    Because I don't go for an complete cleaned engine room, I have make the choice for using the stock Coolant tank so I can use the stock R36 hoses. I could use the stock coolant tank bracket from the mk3 or mk2 G60, but I have make them by myself I have cut the big beam where is on the front mount normally for making more room for the belt and it will safe a lot weight. The wheel-centers are E50 with 5x100 and I order them new from BBS because I don't like the adapters. For now I think that I will use the 0,5 outer rings in 17 but I don't have them yet.
  14. 2 points
  15. 1 point
    My long standing customers latest addition to his fleet, a modified 2018 Lamborghini Huracan Performante with lowering kit and custom made 1221 wheels in ultra rare Verde Draco special order paint. A full safe was and decontamination was carried out prior to Pyramid Car Care's Premium Ceramic Coating protected the full coverage PPF, plastic trim and carbon composite materials. Engine bay was carefully cleaned and dressed and the interior cleaned then vacuumed. Exterior glass coated with Pyramid Glass Armour, wheel faces coated with Pyramid Wheel Armour. Luke Dillion Photography travelled down from Derby to shoot the detail as well. FULL VIDEO BELOW
  16. 1 point
    Now For Sale. Votexsport 1988 Volkswagen MK2 Golf 8v GTI. I have owned the car since March 2012, in which time it underwent a 3 year nut and bolt restoration (work completed March 2015) being 100% home built to the very highest of standards. This build was no expense spared in every sense, with invoices for parts totalling thousands, and many more unaccounted for due to the rare nature of a lot of these parts coming from private sellers globally. It is very hard to sum up the work undertaken in words so i have added a comprehensive spec list of the car below. Also an early build thread link, 2x video links and can supply images of almost anything you could desire to see. Including the original PVW photoshoot images/feature and other professional photoshoots. 89,041 Genuine miles on the clock (was on 87/88k before restoration was done) with masses of paperwork such as MOT’s from the previous owner and myself with the original paper advert it was originally bought from! Links: - http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.php?/topic/503691-champagne-lifestyle-lemonade-pockets/ - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8-qWLFPkG4 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_OZpEQf-OQ MK2 Golf Speclist: Exterior: - nut and bolt, bare metal rebuild - full inside out, upside down repaint (original tornado red) - smoothed floor - rear wiper delete - original etched glass - NOS badgework - Westmoreland US front grill - Westmoreland US front bumper - Westmoreland US amber/red rear lights - amber/red Hella Heckblende Chassis: - blasted and powder coated subframes + all other relevant parts - drilled and grooved brake set up - airlift V2 digital autopilot air ride - balljoint extenders + tie rod flip kit - 30mm hub-centric spacers (rear) - Fully polished Votex Speedline ‘designed by F A Porsche’ wheels 16x7 with 165/40 Nankangs with original stickers re-made - chassis notch - brand new polybushes all round Engine - fully shaved engine bay, all original lines kept, rain tray deleted - battery and water bottle hidden in boot - heater delete - all wires tucked - original 1.8 8v engine complete rebuild - ported & polished head - Pipercams fast road cam - twin 40 DCOE Weber carbs - 4 branch stainless steel manifold - stainless steel exhaust - HTN Herbst tuning rocker cover - lotus esprit ep racing servoless brake set up Interior - heated fishnet Recaro seats - rear seats deleted, flat floor with air ride install - Votex nardi ‘designed by F A Porsche’ steering wheel (matches wheels) - US heater/air con control panel - Votex cassette box (contains hidden air ride controller) - OEM Aktiv door card speaker pods Awards - Top 25, Ultimate Dubs 2015 - Best in show, The Big Meet 2015 - Sponsors choice, Edition 38 2015 - Top 20 Players 2015 - Top 3 MK2 Golf Edition 38 2016 - Best mk2 golf Early Edition 2017 - PVW feature car 09/15 issue - VwHeritage advert car 07/15 issue - Various other magazine show coverage features - Sponsored by Autoperfekt for 3 years Car will be sold with Everything i own for it including copies of Magazines it has been featured in + Shoot images etc. Due to the nature of the car viewing is strongly recommended and really does have to be seen to be fully appreciated. I cannot stress enough, NO TIME WASTERS OR DREAMERS. I am selling this car very reluctantly due to the fact i no longer get the use out of the car it deserves and would love to see it go to a fellow enthusiast. Price: £9995 ONO, or £9495 ONO without wheels and steering wheel combo if buyer desires to fit their own. Price is negotiable, however ideally this is to be done in person upon a viewing. Contact: Jack - 07805011745 Please note images shown are from the PVW feature, i chose these as they show the car very well without the distraction of a background. The car is identical to these images in very way besides it now included US front bumper and Votex decal set (as show in the last images) If there is anything i have missed feel free to ask for more images/videos etc. The best method of doing this is via the mobile given above.
  17. 1 point
    Opted for 5” 350lb fronts and 8” 250lb rears Original H&R specs were 6” 400lb front and 10” 285lb rears which i thought was overkill on a 4 cylinder road car.
  18. 1 point
    Update 77: One of the things to delete when doing the conversion is the SAI. It doesn't have much use in the Mk2 as I'm not running a cat. Here is the part in question, on the rear of the block just above the tensioning bolt: After a quick eBay search, Creation Motorsport provide a special machined blanking plate that still provides an outlet for the heater matrix: I've also got the pedal box sorted out too with the drive by wire accelerator pedal fitted. My mate Hardip gave me a hand here with the measurements, then disassembled the pedal box removing the old cable driven accelerator. He then manufactured a steel plate that would be welded to the side of the pedal box. The pedal was then bolted to this plate using the three bolts as it would be in a normal TT. Here is the finished article.. Hardip your a genius!!: I gave the steel plate a coat of satin black too as a finishing touch! More updates due soon! Gurpal
  19. 1 point
    Cheers for the wheel love , a mate of mine had the idea to fit these ( I can’t take credit) , I made nationals in her last year ( see pic below) she will be there I’m sure this year too , as long as the usual suspects keep them alive all is good , I see there are a few interesting builds going on a the mo on the interweb
  20. 1 point
    Afternoon all, So the fronts off, all i'm left to do now is put the engine and gearbox back together, then it's good to go in! With the slam panel and rad off, i've made a start of lable'ing up the engine harness, just so i can copy everything over onto the 1.4 loom. This will save me hours of head scratching. By rights, with the driveshafts out it's literally a case of getting an engine crane in place, taking the support bolts and exhaust off, then pulling the engine out from the front with a pallet truck..
  21. 1 point
    tidy install mate, looks spot on
  22. 1 point
    I dragged mine out of a hedge about two years ago now and it's now it's going through a semi nut and bolt resto lol
  23. 1 point
    i did similar on my old mk3 which had a mk2 02y 16v box - i stuck a diesel 5th gear in - the drop from 4th to 5th was quite horrific over 2k rpm so you had to be on 4k at least in 4th to use 5th or car just died! lol. but cruising it was mega on fuel (just had to change down on hills!!)
  24. 1 point
    There has been some really special builds on here over the years and this is definitely one of them. Makes me a little jealous I don't have access to the room and tools you have in order to build this
  25. 1 point
    Bit of an update then. The car was very *ahem* crusty in places. The worst bits were the rear panel where it meets the boot floor and the rear strut tops. The sills were looking a bit worse for wear too. One of the previous owners had filled these holes with fibreglass filler so I decided to have it done properly. As this is going to be on track a fair bit I wanted to make sure it was as rigid as it could be (roll cage helps but I wanted to be sure). I sent the Golf to Jon at Broad Arrow Classic Cars in Stourbridge. He had the car for a week and has cut all of the structural rot out and replaced it with good metal. He also stitch welded around my rear struts. Not sure if there's any benefit but I've seen it done on some race builds. There's a load more pics but I won't bore you. The end result is a nice solid starting point that I can chuck around a circuit without worrying about what the chassis is doing too much. In other news I've replaced the temp sensor that moves the gauge in the dash, changed the plugs, carried out a full service including refurbing the front mounted oil cooler and bled the brakes. This weekend I'll be investigating a noisy tappet and finally giving the old girl a wash. Updates as and when, cheers for reading!