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GurpalD

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About GurpalD

  • Rank
    iDubber Leg End

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  • Location
    Berkshire
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Dubs, VR6's, anything fast, detailing, dogs and gym!

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  1. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    That's what she said! Give us a shout if you have any questions or anything! Gurpal
  2. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Fair enough. To be honest, it takes more time and patience as opposed to money and skill in my opinion when it comes to making the standard of the conversion as good as possible. There comes a point when you become eager to get it finished because working in the cold/costs/impatience wants to take over, however, you just have to think to yourself that a bit more effort now will be much better in the long run. Thanks though bud. So far it's been about a 4 month turn around. It would have been a lot quicker if I didn't decide to take everything apart to clean and paint things but then I feel this extra effort will reflect in the way it runs, its reliability and the wow factor when you do lift the bonnet at a show or something. Yeah it fits well. They're wont be a lot of room for hands and tools to get in around the front when the radiator and slam panel is back in though lol! I ordered a gold heat reflective tape on the bulkhead. I measured out which size I needed and just ordered that. It's a brand called DEI and was £20. I could have laid it on a lot better but it's so hidden with the engine in I wasn't too fussed. Thanks man!
  3. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    The VR6 conversion is even more straight forward than the R32 lump. Cleaning up the block is a long, time consuming job, but well worth it in the end!
  4. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 79: The next chapter of the build and arguably the biggest was the fitting of the engine into the car. First up was fitting the freshly painted gearbox back on. With the help of a friend we started by fitting a new clutch kit and bearing as well as the bearing guide sleeve. The gearbox was then lifted and bolted into place whilst the engine was still on the stand. I felt it was just going to be a lot more straight forward when putting the engine back into the car if the gearbox was attached now as opposed to the engine going in first. Here's the picture of the gearbox attached: # I bolted up the VR6 starter motor and the slave cylinder too at this point, simply because the access was much better. I cleaned up all the bolts and the threads on them using a wire brush on a rotary tool so they thread back in nicely. Next step was to prepare the engine bay for the installation of the engine. This included the fitting of new engine mounts. I opted to go for standard OE rubber mounts. I've never been a fan of the reviews I've heard from people about how solid mounts send vibrations through the car at idle and add too much stiffness for a road car. This will be pretty much only be a road car so I'm going for comfort over outright performance and handling. I also ran the new stainless steel braided brake lines. There will be more on this in a following update. The wiring loom was tucked out of the way in to the scuttle area to avoid it snagging anywhere on the engine. Following a lot of reading and research, I opted to go for a Trackslag conversion downpipe. I dropped this into the engine bay now because I thought trying to manoeuvre it in with the engine in place may have been a bit tricky. Last thing was fitting the crossmember back on. I got new bolts for this as the old ones had seen better days and new stainless steel replacements were cheap enough anyway. Here's how the bay looks just before the engine was about to go in: I hooked up the chains to the loops on the engine and lifted the engine and engine stand off the ground. I slid the stand off the shaft and began unbolting the mounting plate. I then bolted up the rear engine mount and set about moving the crane over to the Golf. My old dear gave me a second set of eyes (converted her to a semi-petrolhead) when lowering the engine into the bay just to make sure nothing catches anywhere or the paint doesn't get scratched. Here's the engine sat down onto the mounts. It took a bit of wiggling after this to be able to thread the bolts into the holes on the mounts: The following day when day light was in my favour I set about doing the final touches of bolting the engine in. This included putting fresh CV grease in to the drive shaft ends before bolting these back up. Bolting up the down pipe and also double checking all the torque's of the bolts too. I then ran some of the wiring loom around the engine bay so it wasn't all just scrunched up in a bundle in the scuttle. It's not too difficult to work out what goes where because you set the ignition coil plugs down first and the the rest of the loom stretches to where it should be. Most of the plugs for sensors etc only plug in one way so it kind of becomes self explanatory. Here's the pictures from the days work and how the engine is sat in the bay: I've got to run the last few plugs on the loom to the right places and then sort out the battery cables etc. After that is done I'm going to set up the power steering system, the cooling system and then it'll be time for it's first start! Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  5. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 78: Whilst I've been waiting on other parts for the engine and in between when my buddy Hardip is free to lend me hand I've been tackling the other jobs involved in reassembling the Golf. I had pretty much stripped out the entire interior of the car because I was looking to delete a lot of the excess wiring that was transplanted into the car from the Corrado donor car that was used in the conversion initially. Most of the interior loom was swapped in from the Corrado so there were a lot of loose plugs and wires that I had previously just wrapped up and tucked under the carpet out of the way. Since I was at this stage with the car now, I thought I would use this opportunity to clean things up a bit in terms or wiring and get rid of some of the bodyshop dust that always seem to creep through from when the car was painted. I also used this opportunity of the car being stripped back to add in more sound deadening where possible too. I took inspiration from the build done by Shakey at StudioInCar on a Bright Blue Metallic Mk2 R32. I used Silent Coat dampening mats to reduce vibrations on panels and then Silent Coat noise isolator sheets on top to block out unwanted noise. Here's a snap of the boot floor with the dampening mats laid down: I just done a basic check of how the panels resonated when being tapped to decide where to apply the dampening mats. The dampening mats are very misunderstood in their purpose. This product essentially adds mass to a panel to change the frequency it vibrates at (it’s resonant frequency) and it shifts it down to a much lower frequency less detectable by the human ear/brain and it works. Its an improvement all across the board even if the end game isn’t about stereo sound performance but simply to have a nicer car to drive. It’s a common misconception that it cures rattles, It doesn’t. This is more down to the correct removal and refitting of panels. Here is a picture of the noise isolator installed on top of the dampening mats. Being black in finish they tidy things up nicely. I opted for the 15mm thickness sheets to give a good balance between isolating and not being too thick that it affects the fitment of other parts. I also used this stuff on the firewall and bulk head as well as the damping mats. I didn't want to chance going too thick and then it affecting how the dash fits etc. I've also begun plumbing the wiring loom into the car too. I'll do a separate post on this as to how I've run it etc but I'll take the pics when I've finalised where it's going to sit so that if anyone wants to replicate it they'll know what the end product looks like. I've also refitted the HVAC system. I bought a new heater box for the car that has had the flaps repaired and the sliders on the heater controls work properly too. My old ones were pretty stiff and wouldn't slide all the way across properly. I gave everything a good clean too before reinstalling and renewed any fasteners along the way that needed attention. I've also fitted the the steering column and modified pedal box. The steering column I actually replaced as the bearings in my original one had some play in them and would knock too when turning the wheel side to side. Replacement was sourced from Brendon as DubStock.. Top top bloke and cannot recommend him enough. If you need a part for your Mk2, he'll more than likely have it. I also fitted the fusebox bracket to make sure there was no fouling on the new accelerator pedal or anything and all was well. You can see the modified wiring loom lying there waiting to be plugged into the fusebox. It all went in without too much grief. I think where I've fiddled with this car so much now, it almost feels as if it's given up trying to give me grief lol! (Probably jinxed it now!!) Next jobs to tackle on the list are is to sort out the air ride set up in the boot. It needs condensing so that I can fabricate a proper fitting false floor that fits better in the boot as this was always a bit of a bodge in the past. Then will be to sort out the brakes. I'm upgrading the rear calipers to Mk4 items, deleting the ABS system, and fitting all new brakes lines too. Then will be mounting the gearbox to the engine and installing the engine into the car. Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  6. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 77: One of the things to delete when doing the conversion is the SAI. It doesn't have much use in the Mk2 as I'm not running a cat. Here is the part in question, on the rear of the block just above the tensioning bolt: After a quick eBay search, Creation Motorsport provide a special machined blanking plate that still provides an outlet for the heater matrix: I've also got the pedal box sorted out too with the drive by wire accelerator pedal fitted. My mate Hardip gave me a hand here with the measurements, then disassembled the pedal box removing the old cable driven accelerator. He then manufactured a steel plate that would be welded to the side of the pedal box. The pedal was then bolted to this plate using the three bolts as it would be in a normal TT. Here is the finished article.. Hardip your a genius!!: I gave the steel plate a coat of satin black too as a finishing touch! More updates due soon! Gurpal
  7. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Thanks bud! Haha I think I'll take a break for any builds once this is done. The cold weather is a killer! It's on order Thanks mate! Nope no notch on this bud
  8. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 76: I've started to clean and paint components and accessories up before building the engine back up before it goes back into the car. I just used a brass wire brush on a rotary tool with some degreaser to clean up the parts. Old VR6 alternator in comparison to the 3.2 one after I'd cleaned it up: Started to paint a few of the bits: I also fitted the inlet manifold and throttle body back on to the engine as well. I had the inlet manifold colour matched: Getting excited now seeing it come back together! Got the wiring to sort out too.... my least favourite part of the engine conversion. Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  9. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Thanks bud! Just took my time with it and bought good quality products!
  10. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Thank you for the kind words bud. It takes a lot of time and effort but I’m a firm believer in doing things properly. Hopefully the way the car looks and drives will reflect that
  11. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Mini Update As promised, here are some pictures of the painted bay from the following morning: I’ll give the bay a final polish when it’s fully hardened and then protect it with a ceramic coating or decent wax. In the mean time I’ve been cracking on with other jobs so I’ll have a few more updates on the way. Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  12. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 75: Wishing you all a very Happy New Year.. hopefully 2019 is the year you guys get your projects finished With it being New Years Day I thought I'd save a major-ish update for it.. ENGINE BAY PAINT! So as you know, I spent what felt like a decade grinding the bay back as much as I could before I got sick of doing it day after day in preparation for fresh paint. A combination of wire wheels, grinding discs, scrub pads and sand paper got me to the stage of ready for paint. I wasn't planning on dropping the subframe or anything like that so those bits all got masked up. I highly recommend using aluminium foil rather than newspaper etc. You'd be surprised how easy it is to work with and it moulds very well to most things. All you then need to do is tidy up the edges with masking tape. It's relatively cheap too so a no brainer really. Here is the engine bay all masked up waiting to be degreased before the primer goes on: Next stage was the primer. I used some UPOL acid etch primer. It contains chemicals that have anti-rust properties. I applied one thin coat, followed by a thick coat and then went round and touched up any areas that needed some more: I was really impressed with the primer. The can was good quality and it sprayed very well too, arguably one of the best spray cans I've used. Shows you pay for what you get I guess. I left this to dry for 15/20 mins before proceeding with the base coat. I had two colour matched spray cans made up by the Car Paint Company in Hayes. Used these guys for all the paint used on the car and whenever I need a colour matched can or anything, they're always my go to place. Very helpful and professional. I followed the same principle as with the primer. One thin coat, followed by two thicker coats, then touching up any areas that may have needed it. Next up was clear coat. I ordered two cans of 2K clear in a can from eBay. I applied two thick coats of this stuff and again, reapplied where necessary: Right so that's the engine bay painted. Glad to have got it done before the year is out. I know it's probably not the best paint job you're ever going to see but I think it's a good attempt for a DIY job using cans. As with most things with cars and painting, take your time when spraying and take even more time doing the prep work and you set yourself up for a good finish. I'll get some more pictures up once the clear coat is properly dry and in natural day light lighting. Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  13. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 74: Next job to tackle was the gearbox. Although I'd got it cleaned up, it was still wasn't presentable enough in my eyes and won't match the freshly painted engine block. Again I'm going for the OE+ finish so I painted it the same colour as the rocker cover and timing chain covers, aluminium silver. I hit it with two coats of etch primer after giving it the final pre-paint clean. The key I've found to getting a decent finish is to invest in good quality paint and painting supplies, and to take your time cleaning and painting, adhering to the times suggested between coats and directions for use. These do vary with what your painting because as you can imagine, painting a gearbox requires a different approach to painting a bonnet for instance. I did also invest in a trigger attachment from Halfords to make the painting from a spray can a bit easier and get a uniform pressure on the spray can head. Here's the gearbox masked up and cleaned ready for the primer: And here is the finished article with two coats of primer, two coats of base and two coats of clear: I'll give the black plastic a cover on the end of the gearbox a clean and lick of paint too to finish the job. Chuffed with the transformation on the gearbox though.. will make a pretty site in the engine bay I should hope! Engine bay is next on the hit list! Thanks for reading Gurpal
  14. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    To be fair bud, I haven’t really run in to any complicated issues thus far hence the progress being quite good. Fingers crossed the rest of the build stays going that way
  15. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 73: Another job I wanted to get done that I wouldn't get the chance to do unless the engine comes out and disassembled would be to paint the engine block. I'm going for an OE+ finish with a few subtle modifications here and there. This meant that I was going to paint the engine block the same colour as it came from the factory. I spent time cleaning it in the same manner in which I cleaned the gearbox in the last update. Bilt Hamber Surfex at 4:1, Gunk at 1:1, brass wire brush and soft bristle detailing brush. I just used a hose this time instead of the pressure washer to make sure I didn't get water ingress. This is what I was left with after thorough cleaning: All degreased and ready for paint! I used some smooth black Hammerite paint that has anti corrosive properties for the block. I used a brush to put it on as I wasn't going for a smooth look on the block as I hadn't ground down the texture on the block. Some pictures of the finished article: I can't remember if I mentioned in previous updates but I also painted the rocker cover and timing chain covers in aluminium silver finish to get an OEM looking finish. Again it just cleans everything else and all these little details will give a much more impressive looking engine bay and and conversion. I also cleaned the exhaust manifolds and, sump and cylinder head as best I could. These things aren't really visible, but my OCD kicked in and I thought why not tackle them if I've got the access to them and the time to do them too. Gearbox paint up next! Thanks for reading! Gurpal
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