Jump to content

GurpalD

Forum Member
  • Content Count

    706
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

6 Followers

About GurpalD

  • Rank
    iDubber Leg End

Profile Information

  • Location
    Berkshire
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Dubs, VR6's, anything fast, detailing, dogs and gym!

Recent Profile Visitors

5343 profile views
  1. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Yeah that’s right. It was Baj’s car you’re thinking of. Same sort of set up as this one engine wise but different body styling. Top bloke Baj Yeah that’s right. K only lives round the corner from me. Its not too difficult of a conversion to do provided your good with your hands gurpal
  2. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Who’s your buddy from Slough? Wouldn’t happen to be K would it? Yeah it had the corrado rads in but I ditched these for some electric ones as they cool better I’ve used it pretty much every summer I’ve had it and I’m a Slough boy through and through so you’ll definitely see it around the Farnham Road area lol Haha I’ve heard the stories about the old bill and the car
  3. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    That was a different car mate. Belonged to someone local to me. Number plate was A5 BAJ. It was a darker shade of purple as you say and had all the Corrado bits fitted as you say.
  4. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Haha cheers bud, it's still got shades of white behind the dash and the rear quarters lol Yeah it's kinda like Slough's original Mk2 VR6
  5. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Ah it's a secret mate! Only messing. I used the hole on the right hand side of the bay. Where the steering column universal joint would go through on a left hand drive car. You can then hide the engine loom on the gearbox. The lighting loom can be run up through the scuttle and through the chassis legs.
  6. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Thanks bud!
  7. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Yeah it was very rewarding after a lot of hard work. I did run into a few teething issues after the first start up but nothing too serious thankfully. Sounds a little rough there as the downpipe wasn't fully bolted up and there was none of the exhaust connected either but yeah still sounded sweet.
  8. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    MINI UPDATE: SHE'S ALIVEEEEEEEEEEE! Everything was just connected up here very roughly to see if she starts, which she did first time!
  9. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    That's what she said! Give us a shout if you have any questions or anything! Gurpal
  10. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Fair enough. To be honest, it takes more time and patience as opposed to money and skill in my opinion when it comes to making the standard of the conversion as good as possible. There comes a point when you become eager to get it finished because working in the cold/costs/impatience wants to take over, however, you just have to think to yourself that a bit more effort now will be much better in the long run. Thanks though bud. So far it's been about a 4 month turn around. It would have been a lot quicker if I didn't decide to take everything apart to clean and paint things but then I feel this extra effort will reflect in the way it runs, its reliability and the wow factor when you do lift the bonnet at a show or something. Yeah it fits well. They're wont be a lot of room for hands and tools to get in around the front when the radiator and slam panel is back in though lol! I ordered a gold heat reflective tape on the bulkhead. I measured out which size I needed and just ordered that. It's a brand called DEI and was £20. I could have laid it on a lot better but it's so hidden with the engine in I wasn't too fussed. Thanks man!
  11. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    The VR6 conversion is even more straight forward than the R32 lump. Cleaning up the block is a long, time consuming job, but well worth it in the end!
  12. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 79: The next chapter of the build and arguably the biggest was the fitting of the engine into the car. First up was fitting the freshly painted gearbox back on. With the help of a friend we started by fitting a new clutch kit and bearing as well as the bearing guide sleeve. The gearbox was then lifted and bolted into place whilst the engine was still on the stand. I felt it was just going to be a lot more straight forward when putting the engine back into the car if the gearbox was attached now as opposed to the engine going in first. Here's the picture of the gearbox attached: # I bolted up the VR6 starter motor and the slave cylinder too at this point, simply because the access was much better. I cleaned up all the bolts and the threads on them using a wire brush on a rotary tool so they thread back in nicely. Next step was to prepare the engine bay for the installation of the engine. This included the fitting of new engine mounts. I opted to go for standard OE rubber mounts. I've never been a fan of the reviews I've heard from people about how solid mounts send vibrations through the car at idle and add too much stiffness for a road car. This will be pretty much only be a road car so I'm going for comfort over outright performance and handling. I also ran the new stainless steel braided brake lines. There will be more on this in a following update. The wiring loom was tucked out of the way in to the scuttle area to avoid it snagging anywhere on the engine. Following a lot of reading and research, I opted to go for a Trackslag conversion downpipe. I dropped this into the engine bay now because I thought trying to manoeuvre it in with the engine in place may have been a bit tricky. Last thing was fitting the crossmember back on. I got new bolts for this as the old ones had seen better days and new stainless steel replacements were cheap enough anyway. Here's how the bay looks just before the engine was about to go in: I hooked up the chains to the loops on the engine and lifted the engine and engine stand off the ground. I slid the stand off the shaft and began unbolting the mounting plate. I then bolted up the rear engine mount and set about moving the crane over to the Golf. My old dear gave me a second set of eyes (converted her to a semi-petrolhead) when lowering the engine into the bay just to make sure nothing catches anywhere or the paint doesn't get scratched. Here's the engine sat down onto the mounts. It took a bit of wiggling after this to be able to thread the bolts into the holes on the mounts: The following day when day light was in my favour I set about doing the final touches of bolting the engine in. This included putting fresh CV grease in to the drive shaft ends before bolting these back up. Bolting up the down pipe and also double checking all the torque's of the bolts too. I then ran some of the wiring loom around the engine bay so it wasn't all just scrunched up in a bundle in the scuttle. It's not too difficult to work out what goes where because you set the ignition coil plugs down first and the the rest of the loom stretches to where it should be. Most of the plugs for sensors etc only plug in one way so it kind of becomes self explanatory. Here's the pictures from the days work and how the engine is sat in the bay: I've got to run the last few plugs on the loom to the right places and then sort out the battery cables etc. After that is done I'm going to set up the power steering system, the cooling system and then it'll be time for it's first start! Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  13. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 78: Whilst I've been waiting on other parts for the engine and in between when my buddy Hardip is free to lend me hand I've been tackling the other jobs involved in reassembling the Golf. I had pretty much stripped out the entire interior of the car because I was looking to delete a lot of the excess wiring that was transplanted into the car from the Corrado donor car that was used in the conversion initially. Most of the interior loom was swapped in from the Corrado so there were a lot of loose plugs and wires that I had previously just wrapped up and tucked under the carpet out of the way. Since I was at this stage with the car now, I thought I would use this opportunity to clean things up a bit in terms or wiring and get rid of some of the bodyshop dust that always seem to creep through from when the car was painted. I also used this opportunity of the car being stripped back to add in more sound deadening where possible too. I took inspiration from the build done by Shakey at StudioInCar on a Bright Blue Metallic Mk2 R32. I used Silent Coat dampening mats to reduce vibrations on panels and then Silent Coat noise isolator sheets on top to block out unwanted noise. Here's a snap of the boot floor with the dampening mats laid down: I just done a basic check of how the panels resonated when being tapped to decide where to apply the dampening mats. The dampening mats are very misunderstood in their purpose. This product essentially adds mass to a panel to change the frequency it vibrates at (it’s resonant frequency) and it shifts it down to a much lower frequency less detectable by the human ear/brain and it works. Its an improvement all across the board even if the end game isn’t about stereo sound performance but simply to have a nicer car to drive. It’s a common misconception that it cures rattles, It doesn’t. This is more down to the correct removal and refitting of panels. Here is a picture of the noise isolator installed on top of the dampening mats. Being black in finish they tidy things up nicely. I opted for the 15mm thickness sheets to give a good balance between isolating and not being too thick that it affects the fitment of other parts. I also used this stuff on the firewall and bulk head as well as the damping mats. I didn't want to chance going too thick and then it affecting how the dash fits etc. I've also begun plumbing the wiring loom into the car too. I'll do a separate post on this as to how I've run it etc but I'll take the pics when I've finalised where it's going to sit so that if anyone wants to replicate it they'll know what the end product looks like. I've also refitted the HVAC system. I bought a new heater box for the car that has had the flaps repaired and the sliders on the heater controls work properly too. My old ones were pretty stiff and wouldn't slide all the way across properly. I gave everything a good clean too before reinstalling and renewed any fasteners along the way that needed attention. I've also fitted the the steering column and modified pedal box. The steering column I actually replaced as the bearings in my original one had some play in them and would knock too when turning the wheel side to side. Replacement was sourced from Brendon as DubStock.. Top top bloke and cannot recommend him enough. If you need a part for your Mk2, he'll more than likely have it. I also fitted the fusebox bracket to make sure there was no fouling on the new accelerator pedal or anything and all was well. You can see the modified wiring loom lying there waiting to be plugged into the fusebox. It all went in without too much grief. I think where I've fiddled with this car so much now, it almost feels as if it's given up trying to give me grief lol! (Probably jinxed it now!!) Next jobs to tackle on the list are is to sort out the air ride set up in the boot. It needs condensing so that I can fabricate a proper fitting false floor that fits better in the boot as this was always a bit of a bodge in the past. Then will be to sort out the brakes. I'm upgrading the rear calipers to Mk4 items, deleting the ABS system, and fitting all new brakes lines too. Then will be mounting the gearbox to the engine and installing the engine into the car. Thanks for reading! Gurpal
  14. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Update 77: One of the things to delete when doing the conversion is the SAI. It doesn't have much use in the Mk2 as I'm not running a cat. Here is the part in question, on the rear of the block just above the tensioning bolt: After a quick eBay search, Creation Motorsport provide a special machined blanking plate that still provides an outlet for the heater matrix: I've also got the pedal box sorted out too with the drive by wire accelerator pedal fitted. My mate Hardip gave me a hand here with the measurements, then disassembled the pedal box removing the old cable driven accelerator. He then manufactured a steel plate that would be welded to the side of the pedal box. The pedal was then bolted to this plate using the three bolts as it would be in a normal TT. Here is the finished article.. Hardip your a genius!!: I gave the steel plate a coat of satin black too as a finishing touch! More updates due soon! Gurpal
  15. GurpalD

    Princess ANN

    Thanks bud! Haha I think I'll take a break for any builds once this is done. The cold weather is a killer! It's on order Thanks mate! Nope no notch on this bud
×