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Coakers

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About Coakers

  • Rank
    iDubber Wannabe
  • Birthday 10/29/1986

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  • Location
    St Helens
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Retro/classic cars, Rugby League, Astronomy, Film, Reading, Music, Travel.

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  1. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Done some more bits today. Starting with the Fuel Accumulator(s) (part no. 431133441C) their cases are in poor condition but there's nothing wrong the function of the one that came off mine at least. (Unkown about the one the came with the spare pump/casing) Even though mine is the one that looks the worst (right). But the knot wheel on an angle grinder and locked it in the vice. Also used the dremel for the hard to reach places and Not half bad. Had to let the cloud of iron oxide settle before I coated them with Hydrate 80. I very nearly bought a new one but they are around £170 for a replacement and since I have two already plus another big expenditure on the horizon It just wasn't worth it. I'll give them a coat of gloss black to finish the tidy up. Turning my attention to the exhaust manifold(s). Yeh I've got a spare one of them too. Two exhaust manifold-to-downpipe bolts have rusted so much there was nothing much left of them so I cut them off and was going to drill them out when I remembered I had a spare that I'd kept in my grandads old shed. That itself was very rusty though. While we are here, its about time I asked about these downpipes, they were all sold as 16v downpipes but they are all very different! Not looked into as to why yet, answers on a postcard? Yup pretty corroded inside and out. Out with the knotwheeel and dremel again. 120 grit on the manifold faces got them nice and flat. I also used the dremel to get rid of the rust (sick of saying rust) in the bores of the manifold. The downpipe end was a different story. The old gasket had fused itself to the 'face' it. Got a finger sander, power file? a while ago which I was careful with but It still took ages. Mounting with new gaskets and nuts (ordered copper washers). Also mounted the downpipe. Surprising how long all this took!!
  2. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Likewise with yours mate! Mines going in for paint at the end of the month!!!!! I was going to keep it a secret but I'm that exited I can't hold it in!!
  3. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Oh I also had the bonnet, tailgate, slam panel and lower valance shot blasted. And painted the lower valance and underside of the bonnet body colour. The underside of the bonnet came out pretty poorly. Lower valance was much better. I don't mind painting these parts myself as the majority of them are going to be hidden or in the lower valances case, pelted with road debris.
  4. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Still plugging away doing bits and bobs, not had many eventful updates of late, preoccupied by uncertainty of my new job at jaguar/landrover and more importantly the arrival of my baby daughter on the 29th December have took the majority of my time. The car is back on the drive. It's shocking how quickly rust can get a foothold even though it's under a waterproof cover. I've gone over and hydrate 80'd all the bits that have showing the slightest bit of rust. Turned my attention to the fuel pumps, or more specifically the fuel pump casings. The brackets for these are brittle and the screws that retain the main fuel pump rust away completely making them nigh on impossible to remove. 2 of mine luckily came out by turning the drill to anti-clock and they whizzed out. The third one... Just never. I tried to dremel a slice in the head so I could use a flat headed screwdriver but the head was just basically mush. Then it just broke off completely. Leaving the stem of the screw. Very disheartened I was. So u left it and bought another for £23.00. No you didn't read that wrong (usually these casings go for £100+) and it came with the accumulator and main fuel pump (which he said was knackard). The seller also said that his was leaking. Which I hope I've rectified by plastic welding the seam that goes around the diameter of the casing. I started taking bits off when I started removing the banjo bolts for the fuel pump/accumulator and the brackets that hold the accumulator snapped. Completely. That's when I broke out the araldite and miliput. Yes it's ugly as sin but it'll hold together. It'll look better when it's painted. I will replace it at some point or fab up something from scratch as a future project. Next is the inlet/exhaust manifolds. Wanted the mating surfaces smooth so it was came 400 grit wet sanding. That's better. I didn't want to use too harsh a grit just in case I caused issues. The inlet was distorted in the middle two It's a poor picture but it looks like it's been dropped at some point. Luckily a bought a spare KR engine with head, injector lines and lower inlet for £10.50 on a single eBay bid 2 years ago. So I took that apart. The inlet to head bolts weren't playing ball. What a brilliant tool these bolt removers are. I dont need to stress (as much) about rounded off bolts anymore! One last thing which held me back a bit was the brass inserts in the inlet. Had to buy a 13mm Allen key to get them out. Does anyone know of I'm ok to reuse these? Or is it worth paying £30 for new ones?
  5. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Yeah true. A quick look sees that etch primer especially is only really good for a couple of weeks. Waterproof primers include 2 pack and epoxy. I've gone with electrox. Further 'progress' with the stripping (again). That should keep the metal plague at bay. But when I started stripping the primer, I forgot how much filler work was done by the body shop, however where there wasn't filler and just etch primer, there was surface rust so I tried to go around it but like a scab when i took a chunk off the filler I ended up taking the whole lot off. It was at varying stages of being flatted and since you can only apply electrox to bare metal anyway. It killed me to undo work that I paid, but it was mainly used on the drivers side door. And when you look at the condition of it you can see why. I'm not just re priming the car the car because of the etch primer. I'm planning on taking the car out of the unit and putting it on my drive. I know I'll never be able to work on it down there when the baby is here and I'm paying £120 A month for the privilege so it just makes sense. I've set myself the goal if having the car finished by next year.
  6. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Indeed it is mate, the only time it was exposed to the elements was when it was transferred from the body shop to its current storage unit. It's weird. It's not in an isolated place either. Its literally everywhere.
  7. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Took a while but the engines in. . First time this car has had an engine for 2 years. Don't have much feeling left in my hands or feet but it's worth it. Took me ages to figure out that I was sold a LH steering UJ boot that was meant to be a RH obviously. Good ol vosswagen. I've got to get the shell back to bare metal as the etch primer has perished and there's lots of surface rust showing through.
  8. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Well the hard brake lines are pretty much finished. I used a brake line flaring tool from Vintage65. It did make good consistent flares. Oh yeh don't buy cheap brake line clips made in China. They're not fit for purpose. Non-gen top. I still need to tidy the routing of the fronts, I do quite regret not replecating the factory set-up by just using 2 chambers of the M/C and just using the t-piece as it makes the bay just look messy. My wonky lines don't help like but this is my first time making lines. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. Getting the kunifer lines to bend the way you want them is a real pain too but I'm just about there now. I say just about because on the very last flare of the very last brake line my flaring tool disintegrated. Wounded.
  9. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Haha sorry I was wondering what you meant, I haven't sorted that yet. I'm thinking of trimming about 5mm of material off the end of the stub axle. Failing that I'm seriously considering just upgrading to polo 6n2 stubs so I can do away with the inferior tapered bearings (which I was planning on doing eventually anyway).
  10. Coakers

    Early Mk2 Golf - ABF converted

    Lovely build, you would of so regretted it if you sold it.
  11. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Cheers mate, it ain't perfect theres places where I havnet masked aswell as I'd like but its good enough for now but i will mpst likely re-do the gti stripe in future, I used tornado red but Ive read the gti stripe is originally mars red. Issue was the broken spotlight fixing hole, fixed with 2x epoxy
  12. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    I need to take better pictures I know
  13. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Yeah I've sorted it . Sanded with 220grit. Painted with Simoniz tough satin black paint. The masking for the red stripe was always going to be massive €¥*$. And since it's winter. I used a 2x epoxy to repair the broken part. It ain't pretty but it'll hold. And finished result. On a side note, ive nearly finished the brake lines. They ain't pretty either lol
  14. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    Well it started well enough.My tools of choice. This happened with my first attempt, i supported the rear with a deep socket and gave it a lightish tap with a hammer but this was the result of that. Its not a complete disaster, I'm hoping I can glue or plastic weld this as it pressed back into place easily enough.
  15. Coakers

    Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

    This is a question I'm asking myself a lot lately, with my missus going on mat leave this week it leaves me the only bread winner so I cant really justify a £1500-£2000 respray just yet even though I would love nothing more to see it in paint, although I have been speaking to a few bodyshops and there is one that has stood out so I've told them I'm going with them when the funds allow, its just the question of when. Its ok mate ta for the help nonetheless, i do have another issue with them where the stub axles stick out too far for the bearing end cap to properly seat properly.. if that makes any sense.
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