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Mk2 16v ground up rebuild

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On 12/17/2018 at 1:21 PM, natedogg said:

primer is porus is it not, so even the damp in the air over a 2 year period would eventually start to do this surely?

When doing brake lines i bought one of these - excellent bit of kit - https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/brake-pipe-straightener-tool316?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi578q_qm3wIVCIjVCh0eiw6-EAQYBCABEgK5sfD_BwE


Yeah true. A quick look sees that etch primer especially is only really good for a couple of weeks. Waterproof primers include 2 pack and epoxy. I've gone with  electrox.

Further 'progress' with the stripping (again).


That should keep the metal plague at bay. 

But when I started stripping the primer, I forgot how much filler work was done by the body shop, however where there wasn't filler and just etch primer, there was surface rust so I tried to go around it but like a scab when i took a chunk off the filler I ended up taking the whole lot off. 


It was at varying stages of being flatted and since you can only apply electrox to bare metal anyway. It killed me to undo work that I paid, but it was mainly used on the drivers side door. And when you look at the condition of it you can see why.


I'm not just re priming the car the car because of the etch primer. I'm planning on taking the car out of the unit and putting it on my drive. I know I'll never be able to work on it down there when the baby is here and I'm paying £120 A month for the privilege so it just makes sense. 

I've set myself the goal if having the car finished by next year.



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Still plugging away doing bits and bobs, not had many eventful updates of late, preoccupied by uncertainty of my new job at jaguar/landrover and more importantly the arrival of my baby daughter on the 29th December have took the majority of my time. 

The car is back on the drive.


It's shocking how quickly rust can get a foothold even though it's under a waterproof cover. I've gone over and hydrate 80'd all the bits that have showing the slightest bit of rust.

Turned my attention to the fuel pumps, or more specifically the fuel pump casings. The brackets for these are brittle and the screws that retain the main fuel pump rust away completely making them nigh on impossible to remove. 2 of mine luckily came out by turning the drill to anti-clock and they whizzed out. The third one... Just never. 

I tried to dremel a slice in the head so I could use a flat headed screwdriver but the head was just basically mush. Then it just broke off completely.

Leaving the stem of the screw. Very disheartened I was. 


So u left it and bought another for £23.00. No you didn't read that wrong (usually these casings go for £100+) and it came with the accumulator and main fuel pump (which he said was knackard). The seller also said that his was leaking. Which I hope I've rectified by plastic welding the seam that goes around the diameter of the casing.



I started taking bits off when I started removing the banjo bolts for the fuel pump/accumulator and the brackets that hold the accumulator snapped. Completely.

That's when I broke out the araldite and miliput. Yes it's ugly as sin but it'll hold together.


It'll look better when it's painted. I will replace it at some point or fab up something from scratch as a future project.

Next is the inlet/exhaust manifolds. Wanted the mating surfaces smooth so it was came 400 grit wet sanding.


That's better.


I didn't want to use too harsh a grit just in case I caused issues.

The inlet was distorted in the middle two
It's a poor picture but it looks like it's been dropped at some point. 


Luckily a bought a spare KR engine with head, injector lines and lower inlet for £10.50 on a single eBay bid 2 years ago.
So I took that apart. The inlet to head bolts weren't playing ball.


What a brilliant tool these bolt removers are. I dont need to stress (as much) about rounded off bolts anymore!

One last thing which held me back a bit was the brass inserts in the inlet. Had to buy a 13mm Allen key to get them out.


Does anyone know of I'm ok to reuse these? Or is it worth paying £30 for new ones?

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Oh I also had the bonnet, tailgate, slam panel and lower valance shot blasted. 


And painted the lower valance and underside of the bonnet body colour. The underside of the bonnet came out pretty poorly.


Lower valance was much better. I don't mind painting these parts myself as the majority of them are going to be hidden or in the lower valances case, pelted with road debris.


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55 minutes ago, waj27 said:

Glad to see progress still going strong

Likewise with yours mate! Mines going in for paint at the end of the month!!!!! I was going to keep it a secret but I'm that exited I can't hold it in!!

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Done some more bits today. Starting with the Fuel Accumulator(s) (part no. 431133441C) their cases are in poor condition but there's nothing wrong the function of the one that came off mine at least. (Unkown about the one the came with the spare pump/casing) Even though mine is the one that looks the worst (right).


But the knot wheel on an angle grinder and locked it in the vice.


Also used the dremel for the hard to reach places and 


Not half bad. Had to let the cloud of iron oxide settle before I coated them with Hydrate 80.


I very nearly bought a new one but they are around £170 for a replacement and since I have two already plus another big expenditure on the horizon It just wasn't worth it.

I'll give them a coat of gloss black to finish the tidy up.

Turning my attention to the exhaust manifold(s). Yeh I've got a spare one of them too. Two exhaust manifold-to-downpipe bolts have rusted so much there was nothing much left of them so I cut them off and was going to drill them out when I remembered I had a spare that I'd kept in my grandads old shed. That itself was very rusty though. 

While we are here, its about time I asked about these downpipes, they were all sold as 16v downpipes but they are all very different!
Not looked into as to why yet, answers on a postcard?


Yup pretty corroded inside and out.


Out with the knotwheeel and dremel again.


120 grit on the manifold faces got them nice and flat. I also used the dremel to get rid of the rust (sick of saying rust) in the bores of the manifold. 


The downpipe end was a different story.
 The old gasket had fused itself to the 'face' it. 


Got a finger sander, power file? a while ago which I was careful with but It still took ages.


Mounting with new gaskets and nuts (ordered copper washers). Also mounted the downpipe. Surprising how long all this took!!


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Moving back to the fuel pump. My photos are consistently poor so I apologise for that.  Need to upgrade this phone! Anyway. 
These casings are problemetaic due to mainly the screws for locking ring that turn into cheese after a couple of  decades and the brackets for the accumulator and fuel filter which are just generally brittle and old. As you can tell from the way the two I own have responded to disassembly. So after the miliput had cured and whem time allowed I armed myself with petrol and a nylon bush i set about cleaning everything then painting. 
I built everything back up with one of my Christmas presents. 
Yup, unnecessarily expensive braided fuel lines, around £100 from VW heritage. Good job they were a present from the other half. I'm far too tight to splash that kind of cash for a couple of fuel lines.
This is how it looked before.
Not overly fond of how one of the lines rests against the fuel pump. Just hope I've installed them in the correct configuration.
Oh and stripped and repainted the spotlight housings.
Here's the other side for comparison, they were in a pretty sorry state. Like everything else on this car really.
Sorry that most of my updates are just in baby steps but I just have to do bits when time allows at the moment. 

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1 hour ago, c3peteo said:

You at Halewood?

I am indeed pal. 

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I have sourced a full genuine mk2 leather interior, It hefty road trip to Bedford to pick them up satutoday but well worth it. All for £230 inc door cards! The drivers side has  got a lot of bolster wear but than can be sorted in time. I'm also thinking of dying it black but I need to look more into it as I'm not a huge fan of the grey leather but mk2 leather interiors crop up so infrequently now I had to have it at this price. 

As for the car... All I'm going to say is.. Something is happening. The next four to six weeks are going to bring a lot of changes.


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i like the grey - think if you went full grey - dash, carpets, custom belts the lot - against the monza it would look really cool, especially with clear glass

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On 3/6/2019 at 1:21 PM, natedogg said:

i like the grey - think if you went full grey - dash, carpets, custom belts the lot - against the monza it would look really cool, especially with clear glass

That would look cool pal, cheers for the suggestion. An interior upgrade would be something for the future but... yes food for thought!

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Quick update, I stole/bought me some wheels.





These were up for sale for around 4 hours, at which point the seller said he was swamped with offers but I said I'd give him a deposit. They had been recently refurbished and he only wanted £300. It required another lengthy road trip but was well worth it. 

He knew what he had but he wanted some split rims that he had his eye on for his mk1 cab so a quick sale was required. I was thinking about wheels for a good while so I was very very happy to get these when they cropped up.

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Let's talk about bumpers shall we, or rather restoring them. For thousands of years mk2 golf owners have debated, argued and fought over the best way to restoring the fading textures to bumpers and arch trim. Well I saw Rye1991's thread a while back and he used this stuff


Pro-XL textured bumper paint. 

Didn't get many before pictures but all I did was clean the bumpers with white spirit, key them with scotchbrite pads, clean again with white spirit and dry with a MF towel. Oh and mask...



That's the rear bumper after one coat compared to the untouched front bumper.

Close up showing textured effect.

I thought well I can't have nicely painted bumpers and just leave the faded GTI stripe. What a paint these were to mask up.


But I was very happy with the finished result.



Not perfect, there a scratches and dints in them but I think they'll look good on the car.

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Not much to report for the time being, I've been buying parts that I need, bits and bobs really, I need some GENUINE 84-87 gti arches of anyone has a line on some. But in terms of jobs I've not been upto much except open a gigantic can of worms. 


You see where this is going. 

And after 47,000 years working my way up from 80 to 600 grit then switching to mop attachments on the dremel I've ended up with this. 



The third 'runner' is slightly duller than the rest as I tried a different finishing method but I'll go back and sort that and tidy a few other bits and bobs. They need to be thoroughly cleaned inside as undoubtedly aluminium swarf has ended up inside so you obviously don't want any of that getting sucked inside the engine.

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Quick update, just been to the body shop to drop some bits off (new sunroof seal, swage line decals etc) . After a lot of painstaking panel work from the guys, every panel is now straight, they wanted to use as little amount of filler as possible, obviously very happy they opted doing it this way as the last bodyshop used excessive amounts of filler to 'straighten' the panels and I just assumed they would be using the same method. They said its going to be in primer this time next week!



And just for interest, I saw this outside, thought someone is going to turn into a rat rod but the owner is doing a full blown restoration on it. Wowsers. 



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. OK. I'll start with the throttle body.
I saw a guide on how to rebuild these on clubgti. Looked fiddley but thought I'll give it a go as mine was filthy anyway. 


So. After dismantling it I ended up with this. 


Can of worms? 

But using the guide AND a spare TB as a reference I carried on. Cleaned the parts in my ultrasonic cleaner. Reassembled which got me this. 


But now the main event. An hour ago the bodyshop sent me some pictures. 






Very very exited needless to say

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